When I got off the plane early in the morning I smelled the familiar urine smell of Cochabamba and saw the striking
cordillera, the mountain range the surrounds the small valley city. It was really great to be back for a few days. I saw a lot more stray dogs, smooth sidewalks, less clouds, familiar faces, cholitas, political graffiti on the walls, people speaking quechua, and heard less cars honking. Cochabamba has a calm feeling to it. Everyone is doing something, but slowly, with intention.
Fortunately I was able to catch up with almost everyone I know who lives there. The first day Juan Pablo took me along with his classmates on a fieldtrip to see ruins that I had never seen. The bus ride through the wrinkled-sheet mountains reminded me of when I was there before. The ruins were of big buildings and houses, but no one know much about them because there is no funding for a study.
Back in the city I enjoyed a long lunch with a siesta (Peruvians don't take a siesta after lunch like they do in Bolivia) at my former director's new house. I spoke at my program's field studies class about the research I did in Bolivia, giving suggestions and warning about the potential frustrations. I ventured to the Zona Sur, the poor part of Cochabamba, to visit the families I knew when I did my research there. I first went to Valeria's house to find that she had moved. Wandering through the familiar dirt roads, I found Fabiola sitting outside of her house. I actually walked by the house, not sure which one it was, but she yelled out, "la chloe?" It was great to see her and her family. It is so weird to see kids I know grow up. I felt like such an adult remarking on how much they had all grown. They said they thought about me often and had assumed I was for sure married by now.
The next day I found the cell phone number of Raul, my supervisor for my water research, who helped me find Valeria's new house. She moved in to a shared lot, her daughters have both left (one to Spain, one to Argentina) to make money for a couple years, and she is alone with the 2 ten year old boys. Unfortunately it seemed they had not grown as much as the other kids I know. Or they just stretched out. Raul was in charge of buying a ton of
huarapo, a fermented grape drink, for a big cholita festival, so we all piled into his rented taxi to head out to Sipe Sipe where they supposedly have the best huarapo. I had lunch with my host family the next day, and my host father said, oh no, they have fake huarapo in Sipe Sipe. So, who knows. I enjoyed catching up with my host sisters who have both now graduated.
It was a great trip and really hard to leave. Everyone talked badly about Peruvians, so I found myself defending my new people. Whereas in Peru, I have to defend Bolivians as well. Bolivians and Peruvians really should be friends, as I understand. Although now they have presidents who are not too fond of each other. Last time I was in Bolivia the conservative gringo Goni was president, so it was pretty great to be there and talk to people about Evo, the coca grower who is making a lot of great reformations. He has already advanced really successfully with a literarization project and an agrarian reform project giving people deeds to land that they live on.
Anyway, on top of all the great people I saw, places I saw, and
salteñas I ate, it was also really great for my spanish since I spoke spanish the whole time I was there. Now it's back to work until me next fun break in December when Meggie comes!